Sew Much Sewing to Do

"Cherubim" AS&E issue 85

Being on vacation for a week certainly has allowed me to get some sewing done. When I work all week, I'm just too tired to spend time with my sewing machine. Which is a total shame if you ask me. Even though I do work at a fabric store and do get to at least be around fabric all day; it's not the same as getting to work on your own project.
This romper is a size 3 mos. and I made it for our district manager's new grandson-to-be (in a couple of weeks I think). I used a high-count cotton sateen found at Hancock Fabics. Anyway, I think it turned out pretty well. But as any of us who sew, there are a few things that I would have done differently. I will be the first one to say that I am my own worst critic. Most times no one else is as hard on my as I am on myself.
I have another dress, I'm in the middle of. If you want the truth; I have about 5-6 pieces that need sewn up. But that's for another day or maybe another vacation. My next vacation I'm planning for August right before the state fair. I always have more items planned that I can execute. Oh well, so is the life of a smockaholic. Wouldn't change a thing. Happy stitching!

Bishop Lesson 2 and New Spring Dress



"Pretty Poppet" AS&E issue 81

I know that most of the country is stuck on Mr. Groundhog's six more weeks of winter, but I just had to get a jump on warm weather clothes with this dress. Isn't it so much fun. At least, I had a fun time creating it! Isn't that why most of us who sew/quilt/embroider/smock do our chosen form of fun?! Here's to more of the same.



If you have the original smock plate from the issue 81, you'll notice that instead of stitching bullion rosebuds, which is what the pattern shows, I used groups of sead beads. I decided that the fabric didn't want rosebuds, but sead bead flowers.

This trim and the buttons on the back I found at a scrapbook and stamping store here in Boise across the street from Hancock Fabrics. Next door to the scrapbook store is a bead shop where I found the beads for my dress.

Even though these buttons are not the exact pink from the dress, when I saw them, I just had to have them for my dress. The dress was just screaming for polka dot buttons. So I listened to the dress and got the buttons. I did check the back of the package to make sure they would be okay for clothing.

Okay, next up is the next set of instructions for the bishop dress we started last week.

As you can see I've already completed row 7 from the smock plate. I did have to take out rows 4 thru 6 to make this for a newborn.

In the center, begin with a down cable; then stitch 2 more cables. Next stitch a baby wave, which it shows me starting in the above picture. (I've shown how to stitch a baby wave on the Bonnet Lesson 1 post)

After stitching a baby wave, go ahead and stitch 5 cables.

After stitching the 5 cables, stitch a baby wave, then 9 cables.

Here's the combination of stitches for rows 7 and 8:

(baby wave, 5 cables, baby wave, 9 cables, then begin again w/ a baby wave).

Next week we will be doing the last of the smocking on this bishop. How's everyone doing with the smocking so far? Leave me a question and I'll do my best to answer. Happy stitching everyone!



Smocked Bishop - Lesson 1

I need to start stitching up a couple of projects for more classes, but as I want to teach so many different things, I'm in a quandry as what project to teach next. I definitely want to do a bigger girls dress. Something in the size 3 - 6 range. Need to seriously sit down and make up my mind. Need to make it with a little more advanced stitches. The projects I've done for classes are mainly using two stitches. Maybe something with a little bit of picture smocking on it. Here's the instructions for Lesson 1.

1. This bishop has half space rows pleated. I've scaled the pattern and plate down to fit a newborn. If you've done a larger size you will want to follow the plate for the neckline. Five half-space rows on the sleeves and 10 half-space rows on the neck/shoulders of the dress. On the sleeves, count the pleats, divide by 2 to get where your center is. Then count that # of pleats and mark the center two pleats. Go to my Bonnet Lesson 1 for a pic and to see how to do cables. Also on YouTube are videos from Laurie on how to do smocking stitches. Her videos tutorials are the best. Do not smock on the holding row of the sleeves or at the neckline on this bishop. We will be stitching cables on Row 1 and Row 4. Using white floss and starting with a up cable, smock across sleeve. Normally I turn my work over at this time and go from there. But this time, start back in the middle and stitch an under cable, continue all the was across. (I used pink floss for easy in seeing  the stitches in the pics.)

2. In Bonnet Lesson 1, I show how to start back up smocking when you've stopped in the middle of a row to change floss. Now whatever stitch you ended in row 1 you will start with in row 4. They should be carbon copies of each other, not mirror image.

3. Find your middle again and you can see in the pic I'm now using a darker pink floss. In AS&E the instructions call for using light pink to do this next part. Begin with an over cable. Make an over, under, over combination, poke needle to back of work and then go down to just above row 4 and over one pleat and stitch an under, over, under combination. Trail your thread behind your work, do not tie off between stitches.

4. You can see there are 6 cable stitches between combos across the top. It is the same across the bottom set. You have just completed a sleeve!!!! Yeah for you, you did great!
Stitch the other sleeve and then count the pleats across the neck edge. I usually mark with a straigh pin every 100 pleats, in case I loose my place counting. If you want to mark every 50 that's fine also, whatever works best for you. Follow the same instructions for Rows 1 thru 4 of the sleeves, but it will take longer to smock the neck line.

5. This is what the back of my sleeve looks like after stitching the accent combos.

I'm sorry for the late posting this week, was a little busy getting ready for my class tonight. And I got a late start on smocking so I could take pics for this blog post. Teaching the class is not hard, but I do have lots of prep. I hope everyone is having fun following along, cuz I'm having a great time sharing with all of you! Happy smocking everyone!

Smocked Bonnet - Lesson 2

How did everyone do last week with their smocking? Great I hope! This week's lesson is how to do Bullions and Lazy Daisy stitches. So let's get started. Make sure you have removed the pleater threads before starting the embroidery. If you didn't use a milliner needle on the smocking, you need to use one now. I've tried using other needles and it just is too frustrating. Learn from my mistake.

1. I have to apoligize this pic isn't the greatest. Anyway, the center 2 pleats is where we want to start the first bullion. I've brought my darker pink thread up to the side of the center 2 pleats , then went through those 2 pleats. Do not pull your floss through the pleats just yet.

2. Next you are going to wrap the floss clockwise 6 times around the needle. Keep the wraps firm, but not too tight else you won't be able to pull your needle through the wraps. I hold the wraps firmly with thrumb and forefinger and then pull the needle with the other hand. If the needle does not pull through easily, just loosen up your wraps a little. It should now slide through with no problem.

3. When you get the floss pulled all the way through, poke the needle to the back side and knot off. Make 2 more rosebud centers. One to the left and one to the right. See next pic for placement.

4. Thread needle with lighter pink floss for the outer petals of the rosebud. Notice we are going to go through 4 pleats for the outer petals.

5. Wrap needle 10 times clockwise and pull the needle through. After finishing a bullion, you may need to gently move some of the wraps. Sometimes your bullion can look a little lopsided.

6. Form the second petal by going back through the pleats just before, doing 10 wraps. Knot off after finishing each rosebud.

7. For the leaves, switch to green floss. As you can see from the pic you bring your need up through the bottom of the rosebud then go through a few pleats. Do not pull the needle yet. Wrap the thread under the top of the needle.

8. As you can see, I've pulled my floss tight to the needle. Now pull the needle through and the floss straight up. Only pull until the floss is flush with the pleats. Not too tight or you risk distorting your newly formed leaf.

9. At the top of the lazy daisy stitch just made, secure the stitch by poking the needle on the top of the loop and pull thread through to the back of the pleats.

10. Stitch 2 leaves per rosebud. Next rinse out any blue marks left from the pleating process. Let air dry.

11. Next for the ties. I cut approximately 18" for my ties. Use fraycheck or whatever fray blocking product you like on all the cut edges of ribbon. Fold one end up about 1" and then again.

12. Using and all purpose sewing thread, weave the needle through the 3 layers of ribbon.

14. Pull firmly and then wrap the thread around the center and then take a little stitch in the side of the ribbon to secure.

15. I've attached the ribbon to my bonnet and added a premade bow to the top of the ribbon.

16. Thread a piece of ribbon measuring about 24" long using a bodkin through the casing at the back of the bonnet. Tie a pretty bow.

17. Ta-da! You've created a very sweet bonnet for an equally sweet baby. For my class I'm teaching, I've done the smocking in red and will add red ribbon roses to the sides. If you want to send me a pic of your finished bonnet, I will post it on my blog and brag about what a great job you've done. Give yourself a pat on the back for learning something new.  Here's my email: jmboyd@clear.net

Happy smocking everyone!





Smocking a Bonnet

Well, here we are to my long awaited smocked bonnet instruction. In the shopping list I gave about a month ago, I said to get white floss. I chose pink for the photos. It shows up a little easier in the pics. So girls here we go. I used two strands of floss.

1.First thing you need to do is count the pleats all that way across. I find it's easier to do when you aren't interrupted. I usually don't do counting of pleats with the tv on, it's too distracting. Also, no kids running around or cell phone ringing. I know most people can't live without their cell phones, but trust me it's not fun to start over the counting process. I just happen to have 161 pleats (hope most of you have even #s). Take that number and divide in half which will give me 80. Now we count one more time from either direction, doesn't matter. When you get the your divided # that will be the center. I've tied floss around the center two pleats. For those of you like me who have an uneven number of pleats, we will be stitching all the pleats except the odd one. You may also want to mark the odd pleat at the end of your row opposite from the side you started on. This way you will not accidently stitch that odd pleat.

2. The blue line that is marked above where the needle is at on the pic is a holding row. Most patterns will not have you stitch on this row. The pleater thread that is just below the holding row is Row 1, that is where we will start our smocking on this bonnet. I usually pull the pleats apart just a little so I can see where the pleater thread is located. Poke your needle through the right side of the center two pleats (remember, I'm a lefty; for all you right-handed girls go to the left side). Stay just above the pleater thread. You don't want to stitch through the pleater thread. It makes it tought to remove them when you are done smocking.

3. We will be doing a row of cable stitches just above the pleater thread. The cable stitch is in my opinion the most basic stitch and probably the easiest too. Notice the thread in the pic is "over" so we are stitching an over cable. Same as my last blog post, don't pull the thread too tight. Easy way to explain is to imagine putting your arm around someone and then walking right next to them. Too loose and you don't stay together; too tight and it starts to hurt. You just want the pleats to stay companionably together.

4. The next stitch is an under cable. Notice the thread is "under". Stitch this over, under, over, under combination all the way across. I happened to end on a over cable.

5. Turn your work over. On the previous row I ended with an over cable, I will start with the same stitch in this row. Also, your floss will be just above the pleater threads. You are probably seeing that I didn't stitch one of the pleats. That was my odd pleat, so I'm not stitching it. You won't even notice after the pleater threads come out.

6. Next is an under cable. Do the same over, under, over, under combination all the way across just above the pleater thread. When you get to the end, turn your work over and continue on the same way you have been stitching. To me the double row of cables looks like links on a necklace and it does look like it forms a hole in the center.

 7. Row 2 will start a baby wave. We are starting in the center again, same as the very first row you stitched with an over cable only we are staying below the pleater thread with the needle.

8. Keeping your thread out of the way, move down a row and over one pleat. Notice my needle is just above the pleater thread for this stitch. For doing this stitch think of having boundaries. Your boundary lines are your pleater threads. You don't want to go over these boundaries or you will be in trouble later.

9. Your next stitch is an under cable.

10. Again, keep your floss out of the way and go back up to previous row and stitch an over cable. Continue on with this same stitch combination until you reach the end of the row. I ended the row with an under cable.

11. Turn your work again. Begin with a under cable, then go up to the next pleater thread and make an over cable. Remember to stay in your boundaries.

12. By now you have probably had to use new strands of floss. If you get short on floss before getting to the end of a row (I usually do), poke your needle down between the pleats and knot off on the back.

13. After adding new floss, poke your needle to the side of the pleat where you just ended and complets your stitch. Continue to the end of the row, turn the bonnet and continue on again.

14. The last two rows of smocking will be cables stitches. Follow the same stitch combination as you do with Row 1. You have now completed smocking your bonnet! I'm so proud of everyone. Next week we will be stitching bullions rosebuds.
Again, any questions, please, please, please ask me! I love hearing from all of you. Now I've got to go pleat three bonnets for my class tomorrow. Happy smocking everyone!

Smocked Socks

You are probably thinking, "What does this box have to do with smocked socks?" Well, not a thing, but I bought this box a few weeks ago to store all my embroidery floss in. It has a flip top lid that's magnetized. I just had to share this "pretty" with everyone. Now I wish I could have found a pink box, but since a pink one wasn't available, purple was my second choice. Not a bad choice if I do say so.

Okay, here we go on the smocked socks:

1. Turn socks inside out to mark the with a water soluable marker. I've marked little dots to show where the fold line is at. You can just make out the line, but I like to mark this as I don't want to get too close to this line of the cuff with my smocking. I want the smocking to be in the middle of the fold line and the bottom of the cuff once you're done.

2. Using a 1" acrylic ruler (find in the quilting dept of fabric store), measure down 3/8" from your fold line and draw a line all the way across sock cuff.

3. You're now wondering why the ruffled sock only has two lines and the purple sock has 3 lines. For beginners I've marked half-space lines 3/16" apart. This will help you to learn the placement of your stitches. One the ruffled sock, I've marked lines 3/8" apart, which are the measurements of a whole space. You can choose to do two or three lines. Both are correct, but very beginner's may want to use 3/16" spacing for their lines.

4. Continue marking lines all around the cuff. Next we'll talk a little bit about how to get the threads apart from the 6 strands they come in.

5. First, cut a length of floss. I like to use about 24". If using silk floss, use a shorter length. This will prevent it from getting too fuzzy and worn looking. A length of 24" on cotton floss will allow you to go all the way around most sock cuffs in one shot. Next, grasp the end of the floss with index and thumb. Lightly pounce on the end with other hand. This will open up the floss and allow you to grab ONE strand and then pull. Don't let go with you first hand. Once you've got the first thread out, set it aside and straighten out the remaining floss and do the same thing all over again. Then put the two strands together and this is what you will then smock with.

Many people will just pull apart and let it twirl to unwind. I don't like this because you can get knots in your floss. This happens so easily, you don't want to help it along.

You will see in this pic that I am left-handed. So anyone who is also, you will get all the smocking instructions in left-handed format.

6. If you want a close up, just click on the pic and it should enlarge for you. The ribs on the sock kind of makes a little V, please count this as one pleat. You may need to stretch the cuff a little to see the "pleat". To start, bring your needle up between "pleats". We are going to begin with and "up" cable. Go over one "pleat" the left or right and take a bite with your needle. Notice the floss is laying up (creating a "hill"). And for everyone who is experienced with smocking, you don't need to count pleats on socks. There are always the number.

7. Pull the thread until it just barely touches the sock. Don't pull too much over your stitch will be distorted and become hidden in the sock. On socks, I've found I have to keep the tension on the socks very loose. The next pic shows what will happen if you pull too much.

If this happens, just ease the tip of your needle under the stitch and pull on it a little to loosen it up.

8. Next, go down to the middle line you drew. In the next "pleat" over take another stitch. The needle is paralel to this line. You will have to make sure that your thread is out of your way. It likes to lay in the way of your stitching when doing any kind of trellis stitch. This kind we are doing on the socks it called a "baby wave". And of course, we are doing baby socks :).

9. The next stitch to make is an "under" cable. Notice the thread is going under (creating a "valley").

10. Go back up to the top line and make an "up" cable. You have just completed you first baby wave. Yeah for you!!!!!
Now go back down to the second line and do an under cable. It will create a zigzig pattern on the cuff.

11. When you get all the way around to where you made your first "up" cable; poke the needle between the first two "pleats" and you have now completed your first row of smocking!!!!! Be proud of yourself.

Now on to the second row.

12. Poke the needle the side and just below a cable stitch. You will notice the thread will trail on the back of the cuff. If you didn't have enough thread to go all the way around the cuff; that's okay. I like to stop between pleats and start on the side of a pleat.


13. Next, make an "up" cable. Then, go down to the bottom line and stitch a "down" cable. All you are doing is repeating the previous row you just made. You will see that a "diamond" shape is created.

14. Finish up the same way you did on pic #11. Tie off on the back of the smocking with a knot.

15. Rinse your socks in cool water to get rid of the marker lines. Add a cute little bow, rosebud, button or bullion rose. For a bullion, I will be doing a tutorial with the bonnet Lesson 2. Next week I will be doing Lesson 1 of the Smocked Bonnet.

For those of you who decided to only draw two lines on the cuff. You still do the stitches like you would in the previous instructions. You just don't have that middle line. On the white sock, you can see the "pleats" a little easier.

For those of you who are wanting to smock-a-long with me on a Bishop dress; I'll be doing that after the Bonnet lessons. Here's a shopping list for supplies:

1 ready to smock bishop dress (if you want to order a pre-pleated dress, go to the Martha Pullen company. The dresses are very reasonably priced.)

The pattern I chose to do is from issue 92 of Australian Smocking and Embroidery. It comes sizes 6 to 18 mos. Due to copyright laws I will not post the actual smock plate, but I will show in pics the stitches used.

Supplies:

Milliner needles (multi size package)

Embroidery or small sewing scissors

Embroidery floss colors: DMC #’s, 1 skein each (you may choose something other than pinks; just pick 3 graduated colors for the roses in light, medium and dark shade)

B5200 – Bright White 524 – Lt. sage green 818 – Lt. Pink

776 – Med. Pink 150 - Berry

Optional: needle threader

Sewing thread to match fabric, Mettler Metrosene suggested

Sewing machine with instruction manuel

Fine silk pins, pin cushion

(5 ) 3/8” buttons

Size 2 snap

Wonder Tape

Size 10 or 12 needle for sewing machine

Bobbin loaded with sewing thread

Sewing gauge

Seam ripper

Water soluble pen

Interfacing: very lightweight (2) 7/8” x length of button band

If anyone has questions, please ask. I hope I gave good instructions with the pics. I'll see you all next week for Lesson 1 of the Smocked Bonnet. Happy smocking everyone!